LHASA TO KATMANDU ON MOUNTAIN BIKES!

 
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Sunday 13 September
 
  CHUZANG TO RONGBUK

Total distance cycled: 35 kms

Morning altitude: 4250 meters (13,900 feet)

Highest altitude: 5000 meters (16,400 feet)

Evening altitude: 5000 meters (16,400 feet)

I unzipped my tent this mornnig to an unobstructed view of Mount Everest, bathed in sunshine. Quite a thrill! We didn't have far to go today, but it was a very rough road, so slow going. Plus, it was frequented by numerous high-speed 4x4's, so quite dusty. The road winds up a glacial river which is roaring down next to the road. Stan had some bike trouble yesterday and decided not to fix it until this morning for some reason, so started out late. That meant that I outran the supply lines up front and never saw the truck or the others. No matter, the ride was stunning. The road headed straight up to Everest, which was looming directly above for the last 10 kilometers.

I got to the Rongbuk monastery with no water, no food, and no warm clothes about an hour ahead of the others. The sun was shining and the wind was calm for the first 30 minutes so I had fun exploring. Again, lots of Chinese tourists taking pictures of the crazy cyclist. When the wind picked up I had to seek shelter, and at one point one of the Chinese photographers gave me some pound cake for nourishment. The other straggled in and we had lunch. Then we checked into our rooms at the monastery guest house--oh boy! No electricity, no running water, a disgusting pit toilet out back, and four to a very small room. But the location is GREAT! We will spend 2 nights here, and they will be our highest nights of the trip.

I did a bunch of laundry in a basin this afternoon. Then our team heated some hot water so I got to wash my hair in the basin as well. Simple pleasures are big on this trip. The mountain looms above in all its majesty!

Photos below, left column, then right: The view from my tent in the morning. Starting out in the shadow of Everest. On the road. My favorite shot of Everest. Tea time was in the guesthouse today. Hanging laundry in the courtyard.