Total distance cycled: 78 kms

Morning altitude: 4400 meters (14,500 feet)

Highest altitude: 5200 meters (17,000 feet)

Evening altitude: 4250 meters (14,000 feet)

We all had a GREAT night's sleep last night because of the relatively low altitude. (A few days ago we would have thought it was high!) Good thing because we had one of our hardest days planned. We rolled down the highway to the turnoff of the Everest Base Camp: 102 kms on a rocky, crappy dirt road, which we would do in 2 days. We had to go through two checkpoints (no photos, take a long time) and then we were on our way, climbing up the monstrous Pang La pass: 24 kms of infinite hairpin turns winding up and up to the sky. I thought it to be one of the most difficult climbs that I have ever done on a bike, and topping out at over 17,000 feet made it a real challenge.

Tanya had gone on Diamox yesterday but it didn't agree with he, so she didn't ride today. That makes everyone but Didier and I on Diamox to deal with the altitude.

On top we had a magnificent view of the five 8000 meter peaks in the area, all partially obscured by clouds. Stan and I were on top way ahead of the rest, so we took shelter in a local's tent to keep warm, which was fun. There were as many people taking pictures of us as there were taking pictures of Everest. I guess that the site of a bunch of cyclists on top of the Pang La is not a common one.

The descent was in infinite series of switchbacks into the moonscape-like valley below. Stan, Laurent, and I were charge with selecting a campsite for tonight. My tent this evening opens up to a wonderful view of Everest! Tomorrow we see it up close.

I continue to be amazed at how much the altitude kills your appetite. After a day like today, I would normally be having a large supreme pizza and a liter of Coke all to myself. Here it will be a cup of rice, a few different kinds of stir fried veggies, and a few specks of yak meat thrown in. I'll go to bed no feeling hungry at all. The Himalayan Diet--the next big thing!!

Pictures below, left column, then right column: Me looking perky at the start of a hard day. The scale of this pass is impossible to describe. Sipping tea and staying warm in the sherpa tent on top. Bargaining while shopping at the top of the world, with the world's highest peaks in the background. The start of the descent. Check out the crazy switchbacks. Stan, Laurent, and I taking a break. Reserving our campsite at the end of the day.